{"id":10674,"date":"2022-01-15T20:24:15","date_gmt":"2022-01-15T19:24:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/?p=10674"},"modified":"2022-04-18T15:52:12","modified_gmt":"2022-04-18T13:52:12","slug":"les-begonias-de-lequateur-2012","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/recits-de-voyages\/les-begonias-de-lequateur-2012\/","title":{"rendered":"The begonias of Ecuador (2012)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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by Jacky Duruisseau<\/em><\/p>\n

Trip to Ecuador, 8 to 30 March 2012<\/p>\n

After a few trips to Africa and Madagascar, our first encounter with South America. Why Ecuador? Colette wanted to see the Andes\u2026 As most Ecuadorian begonias grow in mountainous areas, it was a good idea! So off we went to Ecuador.<\/p>\n

A comfortable trip (compared with what we had done in Gabon in 2010, for example): a 4\u00d74 with a driver-guide-interpreter (three in one!) at our disposal and every night booked in advance, which saved a great deal of time.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The documentation I had managed to find listed about fifty species in this country. Unfortunately, only the names of the provinces (roughly the equivalent of our French d\u00e9partements!) were given! So we improvised \u2013 not the itinerary, which we had agreed with the tour organiser before leaving, but the search for begonias: we asked David (and then Sebastian, who took over after a week) to stop whenever a site looked promising\u2026 and whenever we spotted an orchid in flower! Some 4,000 orchids grow in Ecuador and, fortunately, they do not all flower at the same time\u2026 Still, there were many stops\u2026 except on the Pan-American Highway, where there is no refuge for begonia or orchid hunters\u2026<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Ecuador has two cordilleras: the eastern one on the Amazon side and the western one on the Pacific side. They are separated by a plateau at an altitude of about 2,000 m (Quito lies at over 2,500 m), known as the \u201cAvenue of the Volcanoes\u201d: indeed, there are many volcanoes along both ranges, the most famous being Cotopaxi, Cayambe, Imbabura and Chimborazo (Ecuador\u2019s highest point at 6,310 m) \u2013 some snow-capped, others still active like Tungurahua. These two ranges block the moisture coming from the Amazon basin to the east and from the Pacific to the west, so humidity is high at the foot of both. Unfortunately it was high at altitude too, because that year it was still raining a lot in March, and we even had snow at the foot of Chimborazo, at 4,800 m! Hard to see the summits in those conditions!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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These mountains are covered with forest up to about 2,500 m. As everywhere, deforestation has taken its toll, but the creation of many national parks and reserves has helped to limit it.<\/p>\n

Our first begonia hunt came two days after we arrived, north of Quito in the Lita area: a mountain stream and a waterfall in the forest, at about 1,300 m in the western cordillera, and our first begonia:\u00a0B. parviflora<\/em><\/strong>, the giant of the genus (photo 1)\u00a0<\/strong>: it sometimes reaches 3.50 m in height, and we would come across it almost all along our route in Ecuador. Near the waterfall, on the sloping banks of the stream, a small, very common plant with red veins and a red centre, which I took for another species: it was only after a few days that I noticed this little begonia (photo 2)<\/strong> is always found alongside the huge\u00a0parviflora\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>and that these are almost certainly young plants of the giant! In this setting, which reminds us of Gabon, we admire a superb aroid (photo 3)<\/strong> and many magnificent butterflies.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The next day we are still in the western cordillera and enter the Mindo reserve, further south and at much the same altitude as the day before.\u00a0B. parviflora\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>is there beside the path, accompanied by\u00a0B. glabra<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0(photo\u00a0<\/strong>4) growing as an epiphyte on the trunks, and by\u00a0B. foliosa\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>on the banks (photo 5<\/strong>). A foray into the private \u201cYellow House\u201d reserve lets us meet another epiphyte on mossy trunks (photo 6<\/strong>) which could be\u00a0B. maurandiae\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>(BU 560 for the ABS), unfortunately not in flower.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The next two days take us to the eastern cordillera, on the Amazon side. It is hot and it is raining! We leave Baeza heading east along the oil road (following the pipeline) towards the San Rafael falls. A stop near the village of El Chaco, beside a river:\u00a0B. glabra<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0is flowering on the trees (a few dry fruits, so seeds!) together with another epiphytic begonia that could be\u00a0B. sodiroi<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0(photo 7<\/strong>) of section\u00a0Gobenia<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0with only a few flower buds. The road crosses a very rich tropical forest, but it is hard to stop! We finally find a track heading off to the left along a lush bank: there we discover another species,\u00a0B.\u00a0consobrina\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>(photo 8<\/strong>). It is raining so hard that we give up on the falls. We turn back! David takes us to Antisana National Park, still on the edge of the Amazon, where we find the Yellow House epiphyte again and another species,\u00a0B.\u00a0urticae<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0with magnificent red flowers and an unusual fruit (photo 9<\/strong>) which gives the species its name. This park is extraordinarily rich botanically!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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We change guides the next day, and Sebastian replaces David. Our two friendly guides will now know what a begonia is: they had never seen one before\u2026 Sebastian will even discover a few himself\u2026 For now, no begonias, but a grey, cold region at 3,500 m, where a log fire and a whisky are a great comfort in the evening!<\/p>\n

Next stop Ba\u00f1os, a very touristy town on the edge of the Amazon. On the right bank of the Pastaza river we find the begonias we have already seen. Lots of orchids on the steep roadside banks, which we explore on the way back. The next day we explore the left bank of the Pastaza after crossing the gorge in a cable car, which will leave Colette, who suffers from vertigo, with an unforgettable memory\u2026 A stop halfway across\u2026 to admire the Agoyan waterfall. We are a long way from the safety standards required for public transport at home\u2026 but there is no way to avoid this \u201cordeal\u201d to reach the other side of the river! The vegetation is very rich in orchids, with a few begonias, including\u00a0B. foliosa<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0in great numbers at around 1,600 m, as we lose altitude and the landscape becomes forested. We cross back over the river in another overloaded cable car, on an even more impressive route!<\/p>\n

No begonias on the slopes of the Chimborazo volcano between 4,000 and 5,000 m. It is cold, it is snowing\u2026 and the clouds hide the snowy summit; on the other hand, there are many cushion-forming Andean plants and a few gentians, true jewels of this place at the end of the world. We see a few thatched houses and women tending their llamas. At around 4,000 m there is a school, which all the children of the area walk to\u2026 The colour of their cheeks tells you the altitude\u2026<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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On 20 March we return to more reasonable altitudes. We rejoin the Pan-American Highway and head for Riobamba. On very steep roadside banks, red flowers:\u00a0B. froebelii\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>(photo 10<\/strong>) is in full flower. This tuberous begonia is accompanied by another begonia, perhaps also tuberous (photo 11<\/strong>) but with pink flowers and many tepals (probably from the group of\u00a0B. octopetala<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0according to Mark Tebbitt via Ludovic Kollmann in Brazil\u2026). We are at about 2,300 m! We leave the southbound road to take the road to Zhud, described (by S\u00e9bastien Guillot, a nurseryman member who knows these regions well) as rich in begonias: there we find\u00a0\u00a0B. froebelii\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>and then another species, not tuberous, in flower\u00a0B. piurensis\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>: I had never seen so many flowering begonias of the same species in one place! Incredible! (photo 12<\/strong>). A little further on, Sebastian discovers our 15th species and is very proud of it: just two specimens of a large plant with palmately lobed leaves, without flowers. We lose altitude, and at around 1,800 m there is another begonia with very large leaves whose petioles grow from a \u201ctrunk\u201d colonised by moss. A ring of hairs surrounds the petiole below the leaf centre. The plant reminds me of something, and I finally recognise\u00a0B. ludwigii<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0(photo 13<\/strong>).<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The next two days are without begonias, as we are travelling between 3,000 and 4,000 m. Magnificent Andean flora in Cajas National Park and many orchids on the road to Loja, a large town where we visit the botanical garden. Unfortunately, not a single begonia in this garden, but a good overview of the local flora, with many orchids.<\/p>\n

On 23 March we head east to the town of Zamora, on the edge of Podocarpus National Park, in the Amazon region. We discover a new species close to\u00a0B. fischeri\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>at an altitude of about 1,000 m. On the way back we take the old road (a dirt track) from Zamora to Loja. A forested area where we find yet another known species,\u00a0B. guaduensis\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>(photo 14<\/strong>) at around 1,600 m. We end the day in Vilcabamba, the \u201ctown of centenarians\u201d, in a friendly hotel run by French people. It is hot and muggy. A storm breaks in the night, with heavy rain. The next day is spent visiting Podocarpus National Park, where we discover two very interesting begonias: the first (sp. 17) (photo 15<\/strong>) is in full flower; its palmately lobed leaves are more or less silvery, and it grows in large numbers along the path, in full light; we bring back a few fruits. We are at about 2,600 m and it is around 20\u00b0C. The second is probably another species of section\u00a0Gobenia<\/strong><\/em>, very close to the one we found at El Chaco; it is also an epiphyte (photo 16<\/strong>) whose very variable leaves are sometimes covered with white dots; a few flower buds on this very beautiful plant, but no fruit! Further on, still in the park and at the same altitude, we find\u00a0B.\u00a0urticae<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0along a path, and what may be\u00a0B. maurandiae<\/em><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The next day (Sunday 25 March) we leave for the Tapichalaca reserve: cool temperatures at 2,500 m, softened by the mulled wine that welcomes us! We are told that temperatures here range from 7 to 23\u00b0C; this evening we are closer to 7 than to 23! That does not bother the many multicoloured hummingbirds that come to drink at the feeders put out for them. An excursion into the \u201ccloud forest\u201d the next morning with a guide. The reserve is indeed in mist 8 days out of 10!<\/p>\n

Orchids grow there in great numbers and we find the same begonias; one new one, however, comparable to\u00a0B. urticae<\/em><\/strong>: the red flowers and fruits are similar, but the leaves are covered with hairs and the veins are much less visible. We return to our hotel in Vilcabamba in the evening, to set off early the next morning for the west of the country. Near a waterfall we again find the begonia from photo 11, still in flower, and\u00a0B. froebelii<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0on the rocks of the stream. On the way to the Puyango petrified forest. We come across many landslides on the road; they are a real danger when travelling in these regions in the rainy season. Before Puyango, beside the road on a very wet forested slope, a begonia (the 19th species we have found) with peltate leaves reminiscent of\u00a0B. nelumbiifolia<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0without flowers or fruit (photo 17)<\/strong>. At the petrified forest site, which we visit in pouring rain, number 20: a rhizomatous begonia on the bank beside the stream! (photo 18)<\/strong>. We set off fairly quickly for Pi\u00f1as, our next stop, which we reach late in the evening after a difficult drive because of landslides and roadworks. Power cut in Pi\u00f1as, so no dinner!<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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On 29 March we reach the lodge of the Buenaventura reserve, quite close to Pi\u00f1as. We are back down at about 500 m and it is hot. No new begonias in this magnificent forest, where\u00a0B. parviflora\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>and\u00a0B. glabra\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>are still present, but a very fine colony of\u00a0B.\u00a0consobrina\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>at around 700 m: this species (whose leaves, incidentally, look more like a hornbeam than a lime tree) has separate male and female inflorescences, the male ones above the female ones.<\/p>\n

These will be our last begonias. A plant we found beside a stream in the Cerro Blanco reserve, west of Guayaquil, looks like a begonia in its habit, but probably is not one; without flowers, it is hard for me to be sure.<\/p>\n

Twenty begonias in three weeks! There will still be plenty left to look for and discover on another trip to this magnificent country, with its extraordinary biodiversity\u2026 One day\u2026<\/p>\n\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"par Jacky Duruisseau Voyage en \u00c9quateur du 8 au 30 mars 2012 Apr\u00e8s quelques voyages en Afrique et Madagascar, premi\u00e8re rencontre avec l\u2019Am\u00e9rique du Sud. Pourquoi l\u2019\u00c9quateur\u00a0? Colette voulait voir la cordill\u00e8re des Andes\u2026 Comme la plupart des B\u00e9gonias \u00e9quatoriens poussent dans les zones montagneuses, c\u2019\u00e9tait une bonne id\u00e9e\u00a0! En route donc pour l\u2019\u00c9quateur. Voyage [...]","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2447,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[171],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10674","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-recits-de-voyages"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10674","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10674"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10674\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12318,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10674\/revisions\/12318"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2447"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10674"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10674"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/afabego.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10674"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}